Cuisines of Kumaon

The cuisine of Uttarakhand is similar to its people, simple yet incredible. Although Kumaon and Garhwal are divided into different regions; they unite as one in its methods of cooking and the choice of ingredients. There are also several dishes that the two regions are common but have different names. The food habit in the state also witnesses variation with the changing season; wherein winter in Mather and Til Laddus or Madua Rotis are preferred, in summers, Dubkas with Chholia Rotis are relished.

In Kumaon, Aaloo ke Gutuke, Dubke, Thathwani, Kaapa, Chudkani, Jaula and Sisunaak Saag are the mouth-watering presentations. The side dishes in Uttarakhand are equally important and therefore are prepared with utter care, Bhangeera ki Chutney, Mooli Thechuwa, and Hara Namak are some of the sides that add to the flavor of main course meals.

The popular food in Kumaon

Aaloo Ke Gutke

One of the basic and most popular dishes in Uttarakhand, Aaloo (Potatoes) ke Gutke is a simple preparation where dry spices are roasted and used. Aaloo ke Gutke are best served with Puri and Kheerein ka Raita (Cucumber and Curd preparation). This dish is seen mostly served at the festival.

Source: Google

Bhatt ki Chudkaani

Bhatt ki Churdkani also spelled as Churkani is a healthy dish that is prepared from black bhatt blended with rice paste and flour. Having a high nutritive value, Bhatt ki Churdkani can be devoured with steamed rice. The dish contains all the essential vitamins, proteins and minerals so you can relish it any time.

Source: Google

Dubuk/Dubke

Dubuk or Dubke is the Kumaoni preparation in which local pulses like Gahat and Bhatt are soaked overnight and then made into a paste which is then cooked with some powdered spices in an iron pot. Dubke has a smooth texture and is quite a popular winter dish in the region of Kumaon in Uttarakhand

Source: Google

Bhang ki Chutney 

Making our mouth water with its tangy tamarind taste, this famous sauce of Uttarakhand is made from hemp seeds, cumin seeds, garlic leaves, tamarind, as well as salt. When served with the standard Pahadi foods, it improves their preference as well as creates a spell on our taste buds.

Source: Google

Mandua ki Roti

Famously known as a staple food in many parts of North India, Mandua ki Roti refers to the chapattis made from a cereal called Mandua. Mandua ki Roti is served in the main course and represents the culinary style of Uttarakhand. This flat bread is also quite popular among the tourists visiting Uttarakhand.

Source: Google

Bal Mithai 

Bal Mithai is a brown chocolate-like fudge, made with roasted khoya, coated with white sugar balls, and is a popular sweet from Almora in the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand in India, especially regions around Almora. It is one of the most favorite sweet of common people and the people living near Almora region. But, in some places, artificial or fake sweets are also made to fool tourists and are sold at much higher prices. It was an invention of Lala Joga Ram Shah of Lal Bazaar, Almora during the early twentieth century. 

Source: Google

Singori

Singori (also spelled Singodi) or Singauri is an Indian sweet of Kumaon region made with Khoya and wrapped in Maalu leaf. It is similar to Kalakhand.  The origin of Singori is believed to be the old province of Almora. It is traditionally made with khoya wrapped in the form of a cone with Maalu leaves. It is exclusively available in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand.

Source: Google

Hilljatra of Pithoragarh

Apart from being a symbol of religious belief and culture in the mountains, folklore has also become a great source of entertainment in Uttarakhand. Even today, the attachment of these festivals, whether urban or rural, has not decreased. One such festival that merges faith and entertainment in itself is the historic hilltop festival of Soar Valley Pithoragarh, which has been celebrated here for the last 600 years. The festival of Hilljatra has been celebrated in Pithoragarh with the same excitement and joy from the past 600 years. The hill society of Uttarakhand has been a society based on agriculture since ancient times, which is why most of the folk festivals here are also based on agriculture. The tradition of celebrating the month of Sawan as an agricultural festival has been going on for centuries in Soar Valley Pithoragarh.  This festival, which starts from Satu Aathoon, concludes as Hiljatra in Pithoragarh. This festival is celebrated only in Soar, Askot and Sira Parganas of Pithoragarh. But this Hilljatra actually started from Kumaur village in Pithoragarh district. The history of this hill station of Kumaur village is about 600 years old. It is believed that Hilljatra was originated from the Sorar region of West Nepal.

The Lakhia bhoot and two other characters of Hilljatra
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

It is said that the King of Nepal, happy with the bravery of the four Mahar brothers of this village, gave these masks as a symbol of fame and prosperity in reward. Since then, this festival has been celebrated with great pomp in Shorighati Pithoragarh. There is another story Kuru, the representative of a Chand King, who went to Sorar, (Nepal) to participate in the Hilljatra, was able to sacrifice a buffalo with horns covering the neck. The people became happy and wanted to present Kuru a gift. Kuru thought of introducing this festival in Soar valley and asked for four masks, Lakhiabhoot, Halwaha, two bullocks, and one implement- the Nepali Plough. In this way Hilljatra was introduced in Pithoragarh.

Characters playing as bull and farmer
Source: Google

In this festival, dozens of characters like bull, deer, chital, lakhiya bhoot, coming to the ground with masks, thrill the audience. It also shows the agricultural love of the mountain. The festival concludes with the arrival of Lakhia Bhoot. Which is considered to be the colleague of Lord Shiva.

Lakhia bhoot in action, Kumour Pithoragarh
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

Lakhia Bhoot is the biggest attraction of the fair in spite of its scary figure. Which, along with blessing people with happiness and prosperity, goes away promising to come next year. This festival, which has been celebrated for centuries, is celebrated every year with great joy. The younger generation of the village also seems eager to celebrate this historic festival.

Jagar – the God calling ceremony!

Jagar means awakening the word Jagar comes from the Sanskrit root, Jaga, meaning "to wake". Some village deities are worshiped in Uttarakhand and western regions of Nepal, such as Gangnath, Golu, Bhanariya, Kalsan, etc. these deities are called “Gram devta” in the local language. Therefore, the people of Uttarakhand organize “Jagar” to awaken the gods. The gods are invoked through music. The singer, or Jagariya, sings a ballad of the gods with allusions to great epics, such as the Mahabarata or Ramayana, in which the adventures and exploits of the god being invoked are described. After evolving over time, Jagar singing has transformed into an art form that is greatly cherished, the exponents of which are often heralded as living heritage. 

God being incarnated in a lady Dangariya
Source: Google

Jagariya sings the story, playing the dhol and damau and hudka, he is accompanied by two or more people who plays different folk instruments. The second character of a Jagar is a Dangariya, the deity raises in Dangariya’s body after he is invoked by Jagariya’s story. The third character of the Jagar is Sevakar, the one who organizes the Jagar for his and his family well being. Rice grains are placed in front of the dangariya and the sevakar asks the question which are answered by the Dangariya. Jagar is mainly organized during night by lighting a fire in the middle.

A Jagariya or Dholi playing dhol and singing the Saga
Source: Google

The tradition of Jagar is a part of Folk Hinduism, which has co-existed alongside mainstream Hinduism and is prevalent across the Himalayan regions of India and Nepal. The hard life within the Himalayas and constant exposure to the vagaries of nature inspired a strong belief in paranormal phenomena and in numerous folk gods, who were given great reverence and respect. Every village had its own god, called Bhumyal or Kshetrapal, protecting its boundaries. Each family has its own Kul Devta or Kul Devi. While most of these deities have been lost or incorporated into monotheistic practices, Hinduism has strong kuladevata traditions that enabled the Jagar tradition to grow in India and Nepal. In particular, the isolation of the Kumaon and Garhwal due to the Himalayas promoted the emergence of local religious traditions, which are still strong in these regions along with mainstream Hinduism.

The Folk Gods of Kumaon

Though Kumaon is well known for the worshippers of Lord Shiva and Parvati, the people of Kumaon also have a famous custom of worshipping folk deities. Folk gods of Kumaon are popular and they have a rich history. The folk deities are the heroes of the early times who have a separate story attached to their existence and each one is represented and worshipped through a Peak, Jagar( a ritual of the poem) or a Temple constructed and devoted to them.  In ancient writing, it is found that Kumaon had a tradition of worshipping Yaksha and Naag (snake) which depicts giving respect to braves.

Apart from worshiping the usual gods and goddesses of the Hindus, the people of Kumaon also worship Kul Devatas (family gods), Naga Devatas (snake gods), Gram Devatas (village gods), Bhumi Devatas (land gods) and Veers (the brave heroes). 

There is a famous saying in Kumaon “खड़न खड़न माटो, गड़न गड़न देवता।"  which means – just as we get only soil on digging the earth no matter how much deep, in the same way, the number of deities are uncountable. 

So I’ll talk about only the most popular ones, pardon me Pahadi people if I miss your Isht dev, may their grace be with all. This blog is highly researched on facts and all the information is gathered through credible sources if still, I’m wrong with my facts,do comment your views.

Goljyun  (गोल्ज्यू )

The Goljyu (Goluji) the legendary, historical and mythological King of the 14th century, believed to belong to the Katyuri dynasty, revered as the ‘Divine Judge’ of Kumaun, is also the most widely worshiped deity of the Kumaun region of Uttarakhand. Whether people invoke him, or revere him, or simply live in fear of him, this deity is a highly formidable force in Kumaun. It’s not for nothing, that this spiritual and mystical power center at Chitai, near Almora, is hailed as the ‘High Court of Divine Justice’

The Chitai Goril Devta Temple, Almora
Source: Google

Gangnath (गंगनाथ)

Gangnath was the son of the then famous king of Vaibhav Chand of Doti (Nepal). Gangnath has a brute fight with his father and so he left his home in a rage and while his wanderings, he found a girl with whom he fell in love. The girl was Joshi Brahmin Lady named Bhana. But Bhana’s father did not like it and got Gangnath murdered by a Blacksmith. Hereafter, Gangnath became spirit and started harming people and in fear, people started worshipping him and Bhana

Kotgari Devi (Kokila Devi) (कोटगाड़ी)

Kotgari Devi is believed to be the goddess of justice. Her temple is situated at Pankhu, 71 km from the district Pithoragarh on the Thal-Bageshwar route. The devotees write their problems in the form of letters and stick them in the temple unless they're resolved by the Goddess.

The Kotgari Temple, Pankhu (Pithoragarh)
Source: Google

Bhanaria (भनरिया)

It is considered to be the staple of Goddess Kothgadi. When a person makes a request in the temple of the Goddess when he/she is suffering, then the act of punishing the victim is done by 'Bhanaria'. Some people also call the fiery form of Goril as Bhanaria.

Airy (ऐडी)

Airy is another God who is largely preached by inhabitants of Kumaon. He is similar to God Shani and has his eye on the top of his head. The attendants of the God “Sau” and “Bhau” ride on dogs. Airy god is said to take care of animals and is worship in that form. There are numerous temples of Airy but its main temple is in “Byandhura”.

Malaynath (मलयनाथ)

Malaynath was the son of Bhaglinga. He was a disciple of Guru Gorakh Nath. Golju was his classmate along with Bhagyalaxmi (who became the wife of the mighty king of Chhiplakote). Malaynath Ji is the Isht deva of all the peoples of Digtar (Didihat). His temple is situated on the top of Seerakot (सीराकोट), near to the Didihat Pithoragarh.

The Malaynath temple, Didihat (Pithoragarh)
Source: Google

Kumaoni  Holi

Kumauni Holi, is the historical and cultural celebration of Holi in the region of Kumaon, Uttarakhand. It is one of the most important festivals for the Kumauni people as it signifies not only the victory of good over evil but also the end of the winter season and the start of the new sowing season which holds great importance for this agricultural community of the North Indian Himalayas. 

 

Kumoani Holyars playing Dhol and Jhali
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

The uniqueness of the Kumaoni Holi lies in its being a musical affair in the form of Baithki Holi, Khari Holi, and the Mahila Holi. The Baithki Holi and Khari Holi are unique in that the songs on which they are based have a touch of melody, fun, and spiritualism. These songs are essentially based on classical ragas. No wonder then the Baithki Holi is also known as Nirvana Ki Holi or Holi of Salvation.

Types of Holi celebrated in Kumaon

1. Baithak Holi

Baithk Holi (Sitting Holi) is a form of musical gathering starting from the day of Basant Panchmi held all across Kumaon till the Dulhendi (or the last full moon day of the lunar month Phalguna). The Baithaki Holi songs are based on Classical Music with the heavy influence of Kumaoni folk music traditions.

A still from Baithak Kumaoni Holi
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

The Baithk Holi begins from the premises of temples, where Holiyars (the singers of Holi songs) and other people gather to sing songs with musical instruments like harmonium and tabla. The Baithaks or sittings are held in the local community centers and even at local homes.

2. Khadi Holi

Khadi Holi (Standing Holi) starts a little later than Baithaki Holi. The songs of the Khari Holi are sung by the people, sporting traditional white nokdaar topi, churidar payjama, and white kurta, dance in groups to the tune of ethnic musical instruments like the Dhol, Hurka, and Jhali. 

Khadi Holi 

Men in groups singing Khadi Holi songs which are much more Kumaoni in flavor than the classical renditions of the Baithaki Holi visit different homes and greet the members of that house and chant hymns praying for the prosperity of the householder. These groups of men are called Holyars. Khadi Holi is filled with excitement and frolic as opposed to the more somber nature of the Baithak Holi. 

3. Mahila Holi

They are gatherings similar to Baithak Holi but composed exclusively of women.

Ladies of Kumaon playing Baithak Mahila Holi
Source: Google

On the last day of Holi (Holika Dahan) which is known as chharadi in kumaon, the holyars recite blessing hymes such as “Falgun fagwa de ho aashish , sab jan jee run lakh bari” 

which means may this “Falgun” month (March) bless all the beings and give everyone a long, happy and prosperous life.

Chandak - the viewpoint!

Chandak refers to a hill that is famous for housing a temple dedicated to the Hindu God ‘Manu’ and is situated at a distance of 8 kilometers from Pithoragarh. The location is one of the best spots for hang gliding and the magnetite mining factory is also located near the valley. Chandak is a hill with an opportunity for a small trek situated on the north side of the Soar Valley. Located at a distance of 8 kilometers from Pithoragarh, this beautiful place also offers its visitors a taste of adventure in the form of hang gliding. Apart from this, the Mostamanu Temple is also found here almost 2 kilometers away on foot. This temple attracts a lot of visitors. 

The Meghna Hotel, Chandak Pithoragarh

There is a famous restaurant in Chandak which is popular for the 360 panoramic views of the city Pithoragarh ‘Meghna Restaurant”.  If you want to see the whole city from one place, you can’t miss Meghna Restaurant at any cost. Though the quality and variety of food here is average but the breathtaking view from the lobby of this restaurant is worth the money you’ll pay. A two-wheeler ride from main Pithoragarh city to Chandak is a traveler’s paradise; fresh cold air with a beautiful view of the city makes it the most popular tourist place in Pithoragarh.

Chandak Road
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

How to reach Chandak Hills from Pithoragarh Bus station?

Chandak hills are located 8 km away from the main city of Pithoragarh. You can go for a local taxi from Siltham via Ghantakaran to Chandak. The daily commuting taxis are available from Laash Ghar Road to Chandak with a fare of 20rs. It takes hardly 20 mins to reach Chandak from main Pithoragarh city. 

Chandak aaye or cross ke samne photo nhi li to kya chandak aaye !!

Pithoragarh Fort aka- “The Gorkha Kila”

Pithoragarh Fort, an 18th-century fort built by the Gorkhas located in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand. Pithoragarh is a Nepali-Tibetian locality bordering Nepal and Tibet. This small town located at a height of 1600ft is a breath of fresh air and bears resemblance to Kashmir. Hence it is also known the Little Kashmir or Kashmir of Uttarakhand. The Gorkhas made this fort in 1789. Since then it has been a significant part of their history and heritage. Here in this part, the Chand and the Pal Dynasty rulers had clash with the Gorkhas and hence lays the conflicting history. However, the fort which is a sign of Gorkha dominance of the town offers an interesting insight into the history of the land and the artistic skills of that time. It is one of the foremost venues depicting Gorkha architecture. Hence architecture and history enthusiasts are drawn to this place.

front view of The Pithoragarh fort
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

Apart from historic significance and architecture enthusiasts, the quaint town with its serene and pleasuring landscape offers an attractive destination for nature lovers. For photographers, little Kashmir is truly a paradise offering an all in one package – architectural masterpiece standing on a hilltop offering a panoramic view of the mighty Himalayas. Pithoragarh Fort is one of the most sought after destination of this town. Located in the proximity to the place, this fort affords spectacular views of the Kali Kumaon.

Inside the fort
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

Located in the middle of the city Pithoragarh Fort is easy to access for tourists. It is open from 9 in the morning till 6 in the evening. The night view from the fort is so breathtaking; the whole Pithoragarh city can be seen glittering in the light. The area is quite vast and covers undulating roads, wear comfortable shoes and clothes if you’re not a regular mountaineer.

If you’re planning to visit Pithoragarh, spring and autumn are the most beautiful time to visit the town. The ideal time is from March to May and Oct to Dec. 

Chhaliya Dance – the pride of Kumaon!

Chhaliya dance is the most popular dance of folk dances of Uttarakhand. This dance is used as a symbol of war, in which male men wear antique soldiers and dance like war with sword and shield which includes folk instruments of Uttarakhand, Dhol, Damau, Ranasing Triumph, and Mashakbeen also. Jugalbandi of all these instruments and Chhaliya dancers is such that you will be forced to press the fingers under your teeth. In Pithoragarh, an annual event is organized in the name of "Chhaliya Mahotsav", in which apart from Uttarakhand, Chhalia Dal competes to become the best party from Himanchal and Nepal. This event has been organized by local people in the last 10 years with the help of Uttarakhand Government. But in recent years this annual event has vanished like an old oak table, all thanks to the district administration. Slow claps!!

Challiya Dancers Performing in a Kumaoni marriage
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

Chhaliya Dance has its origins in the Khasiya Kingdom of Khasdesh, where marriages were performed at the point of the swords. They were united by the Chand kings who arrived on the scene in the 10th century. In Nepal, the word Khasa is still a synonym for Kashatrya, and in Khasdesh too, they took on the customs of the Rajputs, who were themselves honorary Kshatriyas. 

The Dhol and the Damua
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

Keeping the old tradition alive, the Rajputs dance this at their weddings as a part of the marriage procession itself, led by the male dancers who go on dancing till they reach the bride's house. Performed by the Rajputs with sword and shield in pairs, the drummers are usually Harijans called Dholies, while the Turi and Ransing are played by Bairagis.

The Chhaliyas chilling in the free time
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

Donning the traditional Kumauni attire white churidar pajama, the taanka on their heads, the chola, and face covered with sandalwood paste as if ready for battle equipped with tulwar swords and brass shields. Their costume resembles the costume of the ancient martial warriors that inhabited Kumaun.

The Kumaoni weddings are considered incomplete without Chhaliyas and the Chabelis (type of Kumoani shayaris) 

"Pahadi shadi matlab Challiya wala scene hai "

Guiding you to the “Soar Valley”

By Bus

Pithoragarh is well connected by motorable roads with major destinations of Uttarakhand. Buses are easily available from Anand Vihar, New Delhi to Pithoragarh, Tanakpur, and Haldwani. Being one of the most beautiful and serene hill stations of Uttarakhand, a road trip can give you a beautiful experience to treasure. From Delhi, taking NH-24 will lead you to Moradabad from where NH-27 leads to Kathgodam, Haldwani. Taking district roads from there one can easily make it to Pithoragarh.

Uttarakhand Roadways Bus
Source: Google Images

Online UTC ticket booking website: https://utconline.uk.gov.in/

By Train

The nearest railway station to Pithoragarh is Tanakpur, about 151kms. Another option is Kathgodam railway station about 212 km from Pithoragarh. Kathgodam is a much-preferred railway route as it is well connected with major destinations. Taxis and buses are easily available from both the railway stations. Trains from major neighboring cities like Delhi, Dehradun, Lucknow, Punjab, etc are well connected to Kathgodam. 

Kathgodam Railway Station, Haldwani, Nainital
Source: Google Images

Book your train tickets through https://www.irctc.co.in/nget/

By Air

Naini Saini is the nearest airport from Pithoragarh (5kms from the city). The commercial flight from Hindon airport to Pithoragarh started on October 11, 2020. It takes hardly 1 hour to reach Pithoragarh from Delhi if you manage to get tickets as the flight being operated by Air Heritage Ltd. is just a 9 seater plane. According to the officials, the flight operates all days except Thursdays but the service is quite irregular, passengers in the past have faced unwanted cancelation of flight. Well, that’s your luck if you manage to fly over the Soar Valley with no delays or cancellation. The air heritage flight operates to Pithoragarh from Hindon, Dehradun, and Pantnagar.

Flight taking off from Naini Saini Airport, Pithoragarh
Source: Google Images

Online Flight booking website: https://www.airheritage.in/ebooking/home/

Pithoragarh - an overview!

At 1514 meters above sea level, Pithoragarh is a well-kept secret of majestic The Himalayas. It is one of the most beautiful hill stations with great potential in Uttarakhand. The town in the center of the valley known as “Soar”, and is often called by the name “Soar Valley”. Pithoragarh is the easternmost district of Uttarakhand, sharing boundaries with China and Nepal. Pithoragarh lies in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. Pithoragarh is at the center of an arena surrounded by four hills, Chandak , Dhwaj , Thal Kedar and Kumdar. From here the pilgrimage takes their journey to the holy Himalayas, towards the Kailash Mansarovar. A place of exquisite natural beauty and serenity, Pithoragarh is known as “Mini Kashmir of India”.

The breathtaking view of City Pithoragarh

Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

Pithoragarh is a full package of being a hilly tourist spot. Pithoragarh town is situated in a very nice valley surrounded by green hills, mostly covered in snow during winters. Other than town there are small towns and villages nearby, like Munsyari, Dharchula, Gangolihat, Jhulaghat, Didihat, Askote, Chaukori, Berinag, and many more.

The majestic Panchachuli Peaks bordering the Pithoragarh city
Photo By - Amit Kalpasi

It has a lot of temples and that too in very good locations that also doubles up as picnic spots. Hindi and Kumaoni and the major languages are spoken by the people. Other languages spoken in the region are Garhwali, Punjabi and English. People of all religions live together in peace and close harmony with each other. Almost all Hindu festivals are celebrated here in Pithoragarh. As it falls in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand Fuldeyi, Bikhauti, Harela, Ghee Sankranti, Khatarua, Holi Uttaraini are most celebrated throughout the region. Pithoragarh offers peace and provides an escape from the pain of bustling city life where one can relax in the laps of Mother Nature.

Glittering colors of "Soar Valley" Pithoragarh
Photo By - Amit Kalpasi