Munsiyari- the most scenic destination of Uttarakhand

Munsiyari is a beautiful hill station in Uttarakhand situated at the foothills of the huge Himalayas. This hill destination under the Pithoragarh district of the state is famous worldwide for its enchanting atmosphere. Located at an altitude of 2300 meters, most of Munsiyari is covered with a thick sheet of snow during winters. Due to the snowy peaks here, this hill station is called 'Mini Kashmir' of Uttarakhand. This mountain town close to the Tibet and Nepal border is nothing less than a heaven for adventure travelers. Apart from this, Munsiyari is also famous for Himalayan flora and wildlife. In this blog, know about the most beautiful places in Munsiyari where you can plan during this summer.

The Panchachuli Range
Courtesy: H Satish

Brithi Falls

In the natural treasures of Munsari, you can plan a trip to the Brihati Falls here. On the way to Munsiyari, this place is an ideal break for mental and spiritual peace. To reach here you have to travel 35 km from the main city. This waterfall with its amazing scenery is also known as the most special picnic part of the Kumaon division. The lush green environment with a hilly landscape serves to delight the tourists. Apart from all this, the place is also known for hiking and trekking.

Birthi Falls
Source: Google

Khaliya top

Khaliya is a paradise for Trekkers, A happy hunting ground for photo shooters and encyclopedia for bird watchers. Khaliya top is a pleasant weekend trek that not many people have ventured or even heard off. The special views from Khaliya top of the Panchachuli and Nanda Devi range are the heaven for trekkers. Which provides a grand view and elevation of the Himalayas in a very short time. Khaliya Bugyal is an alpine meadow located in Munsyari, District Pithoragarh Uttarakhand.

The Khaliya Top
Source: Google

Kalamuni top

The Kalamuni top on the way to Munsiyari city is also one of the nearby tourist destinations. Located at a distance of 14 km from the main city, this hill destination is situated at an altitude of 9600 feet. This place full of natural scenery is also famous for its religious significance. There is an ancient temple dedicated to Maa Kali, due to which this place is known as a sacred place in the cities and villages nearby. Apart from the religious significance, the amazing views of the Panchachuli mountain range make this place special. The temple here follows a traditional belief under which devotees tie bells in the temple premises and pray to the Goddess for the fulfillment of their wishes.

The majestic view from Kalamuni Top
Source: Google

Thamri kund

Apart from the beauty of the hill, you can plan a visit to Thamri Kund here. Thamri Kund is a perennial lake which is also considered to be the freshest water lake under the Kumaon Valley. An exciting trek route surrounded by thick paper trees leads to this lake. It takes about 8 hours to reach this lake from the main city via trek. So if you want to come here, then leave the city early in the morning. Thamri Kund is surrounded by alpine trees which provide a spectacular view of the place. If you have good luck, you can also see Kasturi deer drinking water here.

The Thamri Kund
Source: Google

Maheshwari Kund

Apart from Thamri Kund, you can also plan a tour of Maheshwari Kund here. Maheshwari Kund, located some distance away from Munsiyari, is an ancient lake with which mythological beliefs are also associated. It is believed that when the villagers of Munsiyari drained this lake to take revenge, the Yaksha decided to take revenge on them. After which this entire city was hit by drought. The villagers apologized to the Yaksha for saving the village. The tradition of asking for forgiveness is followed even today. Maheshwari offers an amazing form of the Panchachuli mountain range of Kund.

The Maheshwari Kund
Source: Google

Madkot

Apart from the above-mentioned places, you can plan a trip to Madkot located at a distance of 5 km from Munsiyari. Madakot is known for its natural pool of hot water. The source of hot water originating from the land is believed to be capable of curing diseases like skin diseases, body aches, and arthritis. This beautiful place is situated in a quiet environment separate from urban congestion, where the tourists like it very much. From Munsiyari to Madkot you can reach via cab service. 

Madkot , Munsiyari
Source: Google

These were some attractive places located around Munsiyari, where you can make a plan any month of the year. If you ever get a chance to visit Pithoragarh, do plan a trip to Munsiyari as in local language there is a famous saying “सार संसार एक मुन्स्यार” which means there no beautiful place like Munsyari on this earth. 

If any of the above pictures belongs to you, contact me at amitkalpasi@gmail.com for credits. Thank you

Aipan – the rich tradition of Kumaon!

Aipan or Alpana is a folk painting that holds a special place in the houses of Kumaon. It is a traditional folk painting of Uttarakhand which is exclusively related to the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. Kumaon has a tradition of decorating their homes on the occasion of any special events like festivals, weddings, worshipping, etc.  Aipan literally means to write. The Aipan is written mainly with three fingers. Any festival and religious ritual of Kumaon is considered incomplete without Aipan.  Kumauni women begin all religious rituals and festivals by making an Aipan in their courtyard. Aipan is made in festivals, god worshipping and many occasions like birth, marriage, janeu and for some reason even death. A lot of geometric line diagrams and images of deities are given a beautiful appearance in the Aipan.

Aipan with Footsteps of Goddess Lakshmi
Source: Google

Source: Google

Aipan is made from Ocher (गेरू) and “Biswar” (चावल का पिसा घोल). As the festivals approach the Kumoani women starts making Aipans in their courtyards, floor of the house, kitchen, Pooja room, their lockers, etc. during Deepavali the footsteps of goddess Lakshmi are made on the floor from the entrance of the house to the Pooja room, it is considered as the goodwill and people expect goddess Lakshmi’s blessings on them. 

The Kumaoni Women making Aipan
Source: Google

Original references of Kumauni Aipan mode are found in Vedas and Puranas.

The original references to the Kumaoni Aipan are found in the Puranas. For example, the complete description of the Dhuligarya chowki used on the occasion of marriage is found in the Shiva Purana and Vishnu Purana as a grace device. At the same time, the oldest book on this genre is believed to be written by Nathu Ram Ji, a teacher in Almora.  Kumaon traditionally has a system of tantra-based worship methods, in which special aasana “Chowkis” are made to invoke different gods.

Different Chowkies of Gods
Courtesy: Savita Joshi

In this way, it is also necessary to understand that the Aipan is not only a folk art, but it is also a special device used to invoke different folk gods of Kumaon. The description of these “Chowkis” is also found in many Puranas including Shiva and Vishnu Puranas. In Tibet also same types of “Chowkis” are found on the lands that are very large in size and are known by the name “Kinkhor”.

Cuisines of Kumaon

The cuisine of Uttarakhand is similar to its people, simple yet incredible. Although Kumaon and Garhwal are divided into different regions; they unite as one in its methods of cooking and the choice of ingredients. There are also several dishes that the two regions are common but have different names. The food habit in the state also witnesses variation with the changing season; wherein winter in Mather and Til Laddus or Madua Rotis are preferred, in summers, Dubkas with Chholia Rotis are relished.

In Kumaon, Aaloo ke Gutuke, Dubke, Thathwani, Kaapa, Chudkani, Jaula and Sisunaak Saag are the mouth-watering presentations. The side dishes in Uttarakhand are equally important and therefore are prepared with utter care, Bhangeera ki Chutney, Mooli Thechuwa, and Hara Namak are some of the sides that add to the flavor of main course meals.

The popular food in Kumaon

Aaloo Ke Gutke

One of the basic and most popular dishes in Uttarakhand, Aaloo (Potatoes) ke Gutke is a simple preparation where dry spices are roasted and used. Aaloo ke Gutke are best served with Puri and Kheerein ka Raita (Cucumber and Curd preparation). This dish is seen mostly served at the festival.

Source: Google

Bhatt ki Chudkaani

Bhatt ki Churdkani also spelled as Churkani is a healthy dish that is prepared from black bhatt blended with rice paste and flour. Having a high nutritive value, Bhatt ki Churdkani can be devoured with steamed rice. The dish contains all the essential vitamins, proteins and minerals so you can relish it any time.

Source: Google

Dubuk/Dubke

Dubuk or Dubke is the Kumaoni preparation in which local pulses like Gahat and Bhatt are soaked overnight and then made into a paste which is then cooked with some powdered spices in an iron pot. Dubke has a smooth texture and is quite a popular winter dish in the region of Kumaon in Uttarakhand

Source: Google

Bhang ki Chutney 

Making our mouth water with its tangy tamarind taste, this famous sauce of Uttarakhand is made from hemp seeds, cumin seeds, garlic leaves, tamarind, as well as salt. When served with the standard Pahadi foods, it improves their preference as well as creates a spell on our taste buds.

Source: Google

Mandua ki Roti

Famously known as a staple food in many parts of North India, Mandua ki Roti refers to the chapattis made from a cereal called Mandua. Mandua ki Roti is served in the main course and represents the culinary style of Uttarakhand. This flat bread is also quite popular among the tourists visiting Uttarakhand.

Source: Google

Bal Mithai 

Bal Mithai is a brown chocolate-like fudge, made with roasted khoya, coated with white sugar balls, and is a popular sweet from Almora in the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand in India, especially regions around Almora. It is one of the most favorite sweet of common people and the people living near Almora region. But, in some places, artificial or fake sweets are also made to fool tourists and are sold at much higher prices. It was an invention of Lala Joga Ram Shah of Lal Bazaar, Almora during the early twentieth century. 

Source: Google

Singori

Singori (also spelled Singodi) or Singauri is an Indian sweet of Kumaon region made with Khoya and wrapped in Maalu leaf. It is similar to Kalakhand.  The origin of Singori is believed to be the old province of Almora. It is traditionally made with khoya wrapped in the form of a cone with Maalu leaves. It is exclusively available in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand.

Source: Google

Hilljatra of Pithoragarh

Apart from being a symbol of religious belief and culture in the mountains, folklore has also become a great source of entertainment in Uttarakhand. Even today, the attachment of these festivals, whether urban or rural, has not decreased. One such festival that merges faith and entertainment in itself is the historic hilltop festival of Soar Valley Pithoragarh, which has been celebrated here for the last 600 years. The festival of Hilljatra has been celebrated in Pithoragarh with the same excitement and joy from the past 600 years. The hill society of Uttarakhand has been a society based on agriculture since ancient times, which is why most of the folk festivals here are also based on agriculture. The tradition of celebrating the month of Sawan as an agricultural festival has been going on for centuries in Soar Valley Pithoragarh.  This festival, which starts from Satu Aathoon, concludes as Hiljatra in Pithoragarh. This festival is celebrated only in Soar, Askot and Sira Parganas of Pithoragarh. But this Hilljatra actually started from Kumaur village in Pithoragarh district. The history of this hill station of Kumaur village is about 600 years old. It is believed that Hilljatra was originated from the Sorar region of West Nepal.

The Lakhia bhoot and two other characters of Hilljatra
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

It is said that the King of Nepal, happy with the bravery of the four Mahar brothers of this village, gave these masks as a symbol of fame and prosperity in reward. Since then, this festival has been celebrated with great pomp in Shorighati Pithoragarh. There is another story Kuru, the representative of a Chand King, who went to Sorar, (Nepal) to participate in the Hilljatra, was able to sacrifice a buffalo with horns covering the neck. The people became happy and wanted to present Kuru a gift. Kuru thought of introducing this festival in Soar valley and asked for four masks, Lakhiabhoot, Halwaha, two bullocks, and one implement- the Nepali Plough. In this way Hilljatra was introduced in Pithoragarh.

Characters playing as bull and farmer
Source: Google

In this festival, dozens of characters like bull, deer, chital, lakhiya bhoot, coming to the ground with masks, thrill the audience. It also shows the agricultural love of the mountain. The festival concludes with the arrival of Lakhia Bhoot. Which is considered to be the colleague of Lord Shiva.

Lakhia bhoot in action, Kumour Pithoragarh
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

Lakhia Bhoot is the biggest attraction of the fair in spite of its scary figure. Which, along with blessing people with happiness and prosperity, goes away promising to come next year. This festival, which has been celebrated for centuries, is celebrated every year with great joy. The younger generation of the village also seems eager to celebrate this historic festival.

Jagar – the God calling ceremony!

Jagar means awakening the word Jagar comes from the Sanskrit root, Jaga, meaning "to wake". Some village deities are worshiped in Uttarakhand and western regions of Nepal, such as Gangnath, Golu, Bhanariya, Kalsan, etc. these deities are called “Gram devta” in the local language. Therefore, the people of Uttarakhand organize “Jagar” to awaken the gods. The gods are invoked through music. The singer, or Jagariya, sings a ballad of the gods with allusions to great epics, such as the Mahabarata or Ramayana, in which the adventures and exploits of the god being invoked are described. After evolving over time, Jagar singing has transformed into an art form that is greatly cherished, the exponents of which are often heralded as living heritage. 

God being incarnated in a lady Dangariya
Source: Google

Jagariya sings the story, playing the dhol and damau and hudka, he is accompanied by two or more people who plays different folk instruments. The second character of a Jagar is a Dangariya, the deity raises in Dangariya’s body after he is invoked by Jagariya’s story. The third character of the Jagar is Sevakar, the one who organizes the Jagar for his and his family well being. Rice grains are placed in front of the dangariya and the sevakar asks the question which are answered by the Dangariya. Jagar is mainly organized during night by lighting a fire in the middle.

A Jagariya or Dholi playing dhol and singing the Saga
Source: Google

The tradition of Jagar is a part of Folk Hinduism, which has co-existed alongside mainstream Hinduism and is prevalent across the Himalayan regions of India and Nepal. The hard life within the Himalayas and constant exposure to the vagaries of nature inspired a strong belief in paranormal phenomena and in numerous folk gods, who were given great reverence and respect. Every village had its own god, called Bhumyal or Kshetrapal, protecting its boundaries. Each family has its own Kul Devta or Kul Devi. While most of these deities have been lost or incorporated into monotheistic practices, Hinduism has strong kuladevata traditions that enabled the Jagar tradition to grow in India and Nepal. In particular, the isolation of the Kumaon and Garhwal due to the Himalayas promoted the emergence of local religious traditions, which are still strong in these regions along with mainstream Hinduism.

The Folk Gods of Kumaon

Though Kumaon is well known for the worshippers of Lord Shiva and Parvati, the people of Kumaon also have a famous custom of worshipping folk deities. Folk gods of Kumaon are popular and they have a rich history. The folk deities are the heroes of the early times who have a separate story attached to their existence and each one is represented and worshipped through a Peak, Jagar( a ritual of the poem) or a Temple constructed and devoted to them.  In ancient writing, it is found that Kumaon had a tradition of worshipping Yaksha and Naag (snake) which depicts giving respect to braves.

Apart from worshiping the usual gods and goddesses of the Hindus, the people of Kumaon also worship Kul Devatas (family gods), Naga Devatas (snake gods), Gram Devatas (village gods), Bhumi Devatas (land gods) and Veers (the brave heroes). 

There is a famous saying in Kumaon “खड़न खड़न माटो, गड़न गड़न देवता।"  which means – just as we get only soil on digging the earth no matter how much deep, in the same way, the number of deities are uncountable. 

So I’ll talk about only the most popular ones, pardon me Pahadi people if I miss your Isht dev, may their grace be with all. This blog is highly researched on facts and all the information is gathered through credible sources if still, I’m wrong with my facts,do comment your views.

Goljyun  (गोल्ज्यू )

The Goljyu (Goluji) the legendary, historical and mythological King of the 14th century, believed to belong to the Katyuri dynasty, revered as the ‘Divine Judge’ of Kumaun, is also the most widely worshiped deity of the Kumaun region of Uttarakhand. Whether people invoke him, or revere him, or simply live in fear of him, this deity is a highly formidable force in Kumaun. It’s not for nothing, that this spiritual and mystical power center at Chitai, near Almora, is hailed as the ‘High Court of Divine Justice’

The Chitai Goril Devta Temple, Almora
Source: Google

Gangnath (गंगनाथ)

Gangnath was the son of the then famous king of Vaibhav Chand of Doti (Nepal). Gangnath has a brute fight with his father and so he left his home in a rage and while his wanderings, he found a girl with whom he fell in love. The girl was Joshi Brahmin Lady named Bhana. But Bhana’s father did not like it and got Gangnath murdered by a Blacksmith. Hereafter, Gangnath became spirit and started harming people and in fear, people started worshipping him and Bhana

Kotgari Devi (Kokila Devi) (कोटगाड़ी)

Kotgari Devi is believed to be the goddess of justice. Her temple is situated at Pankhu, 71 km from the district Pithoragarh on the Thal-Bageshwar route. The devotees write their problems in the form of letters and stick them in the temple unless they're resolved by the Goddess.

The Kotgari Temple, Pankhu (Pithoragarh)
Source: Google

Bhanaria (भनरिया)

It is considered to be the staple of Goddess Kothgadi. When a person makes a request in the temple of the Goddess when he/she is suffering, then the act of punishing the victim is done by 'Bhanaria'. Some people also call the fiery form of Goril as Bhanaria.

Airy (ऐडी)

Airy is another God who is largely preached by inhabitants of Kumaon. He is similar to God Shani and has his eye on the top of his head. The attendants of the God “Sau” and “Bhau” ride on dogs. Airy god is said to take care of animals and is worship in that form. There are numerous temples of Airy but its main temple is in “Byandhura”.

Malaynath (मलयनाथ)

Malaynath was the son of Bhaglinga. He was a disciple of Guru Gorakh Nath. Golju was his classmate along with Bhagyalaxmi (who became the wife of the mighty king of Chhiplakote). Malaynath Ji is the Isht deva of all the peoples of Digtar (Didihat). His temple is situated on the top of Seerakot (सीराकोट), near to the Didihat Pithoragarh.

The Malaynath temple, Didihat (Pithoragarh)
Source: Google

Kumaoni  Holi

Kumauni Holi, is the historical and cultural celebration of Holi in the region of Kumaon, Uttarakhand. It is one of the most important festivals for the Kumauni people as it signifies not only the victory of good over evil but also the end of the winter season and the start of the new sowing season which holds great importance for this agricultural community of the North Indian Himalayas. 

 

Kumoani Holyars playing Dhol and Jhali
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

The uniqueness of the Kumaoni Holi lies in its being a musical affair in the form of Baithki Holi, Khari Holi, and the Mahila Holi. The Baithki Holi and Khari Holi are unique in that the songs on which they are based have a touch of melody, fun, and spiritualism. These songs are essentially based on classical ragas. No wonder then the Baithki Holi is also known as Nirvana Ki Holi or Holi of Salvation.

Types of Holi celebrated in Kumaon

1. Baithak Holi

Baithk Holi (Sitting Holi) is a form of musical gathering starting from the day of Basant Panchmi held all across Kumaon till the Dulhendi (or the last full moon day of the lunar month Phalguna). The Baithaki Holi songs are based on Classical Music with the heavy influence of Kumaoni folk music traditions.

A still from Baithak Kumaoni Holi
Photo by - Amit Kalpasi

The Baithk Holi begins from the premises of temples, where Holiyars (the singers of Holi songs) and other people gather to sing songs with musical instruments like harmonium and tabla. The Baithaks or sittings are held in the local community centers and even at local homes.

2. Khadi Holi

Khadi Holi (Standing Holi) starts a little later than Baithaki Holi. The songs of the Khari Holi are sung by the people, sporting traditional white nokdaar topi, churidar payjama, and white kurta, dance in groups to the tune of ethnic musical instruments like the Dhol, Hurka, and Jhali. 

Khadi Holi 

Men in groups singing Khadi Holi songs which are much more Kumaoni in flavor than the classical renditions of the Baithaki Holi visit different homes and greet the members of that house and chant hymns praying for the prosperity of the householder. These groups of men are called Holyars. Khadi Holi is filled with excitement and frolic as opposed to the more somber nature of the Baithak Holi. 

3. Mahila Holi

They are gatherings similar to Baithak Holi but composed exclusively of women.

Ladies of Kumaon playing Baithak Mahila Holi
Source: Google

On the last day of Holi (Holika Dahan) which is known as chharadi in kumaon, the holyars recite blessing hymes such as “Falgun fagwa de ho aashish , sab jan jee run lakh bari” 

which means may this “Falgun” month (March) bless all the beings and give everyone a long, happy and prosperous life.